Headset

Headsets are one of those components that no matter how much or how little you spend on them they will perform well, that is under normal-ish, road riding conditions.  I'm not talking about hardcore, jumping down a cliff, mountain biking.  Chris King headsets clearly has that market locked down, but for most riders, when it comes down to selecting a headset its more how the part looks than worrying about performance or even weight.  Sure if you are obsessed with weight you could definitely save precious 10s of grams.  Cane Creek AER headsets can weigh as little as 46 grams, but even a run of the mill alloy Tange headset only weighs in at 160 grams.  

Stronglight, A9

For this bicycle I want to try out a roller bearing headset, also known as 'needle' bearings.  The most famous of the roller bearing headset is the  Stronglight A9, which is no longer made with roller bearings, but with sealed cartridge bearings instead.  There are a couple of benefits to a roller bearing over standard ball bearings or sealed bearings, in that they do not develop indexing and can reduce handlebar 'shimmy'.  Indexing is when you can feel bumpy steering or that the handlebar kinks when turned to a certain point.  Basically over time, flat spots on bearings or pits on the races where the bearing sit can develop, which can be felt when turning the handlebar.  This is a sign that either bearings need replacing or the headset all together depending on the source of the indexing.  'Shimmy' is a sort of vibration or shaking that can also be felt in the handlebar.  I would say that this can be more strongly felt when going hands-free on you bike.  The front wheel/forks can slightly wobble.  

There are only a couple of manufacturers who make roller bearing headsets today, the models that I am  aware of being Miche Primato and Velo Orange Roller Bearing.  Both use what appear to be the same style of bearings Stronglight used to, but they both (Velo Orange mostly), are really lacking in the looks department.

Miche, Primato

Velo Orange, Roller Bearing 

Another headset that Stronglight was also famous for was their Delta model.  The Delta was very similar to the A9 headset, aluminum body with the same roller bearings, but also incorporated rubber seals, which helped to keep dirt and gunk out of the bearings.  As well, the Delta had cool looking bulbous shape, which I find quite nice looking.  I was lucky enough to purchase one of these headsets from ebay and I was pretty set on using it until...

Stronglight, Delta

...I found the Saavedra Super Competition.  I have yet to track one down, but this to me this is probably the nicest looking headset ever.  I especially like the engraving and spanner bolt pattern.  According to Arc-En-Ciel Bicycle Studio blog, these headsets are especially easy to setup, which is apparently a bit more challenging with the Miche and Stronglight models.

Saavedra, Super Competition

Handlebars

I have always known that I would be using drop bars for this bicycle.  I have been riding with 44cm Nitto, Model 177 (Noodle) handlebars for a while now and they were the original contender to be used on this bicycle.  I like the width of them, the almost totally flat ramps and swept back bars are very comfortable.  I usually ride with my hands behind the hoods or on top of the bars, so they are pretty ideal for that style of riding.

Nitto, Model 177 (Noodle)

I was pretty set on using the Noodle bars until I came across the Grand Bois Maes Parallel handlebars, which are actually made by Nitto too, but to Grand Bois specs.  A somewhat trivial/preferential feature is that the Maes Parallel bars do not have a sleeve, which if you bother to pay attention can make a slight creaking noise while riding.  I do notice this noise while using the Noodle bars from time to time, but it's really not a big deal.

Grand Bois, Maes Parallel.

Another option could also be the Velo Orange, Grand Cru Course handlebars.  They are very similar to the Grand Bois handlebars, except they come in the slightly wider 44cm and cost nearly half the price.  The finish on theses bars are quite nice too, highly polished and engraved logos.  Both the Grand Bois and Velo Orange handlebars are based on 1950's Philippe Professional.

Velo Orange, Grand Cru Course

Here are spec's that compare how there bars differ:
Nitto, Model 177 (Noodle)
C-t-C Width: 440mm
Reach: 96mm
Rise/Drop: 140mm
Clamp: 26.0, Sleeved
Made in Japan

Grand Bois, Maes Parallel
C-t-C Width: 430 mm
Reach: 115mm
Rise/Drop: 125mm
Clamp: 25.4, Non-sleeved
Made in Japan

Velo Orange, Grand Cru Course
Drops: 440mm
Reach: 115mm
Rise/Drop: 125mm
Clamp: 26.0, Non-Sleeved
Made in Taiwan

These specs show the main difference between the handlebars being reach and drop.  This means that the Noodle bars have more room for when the rider is in the drops and there is a shorter reach to the brake levers.  As far as cosmetics go, the Grand Bois handle bars have no logo, where both Nitto and Velo Orange having nicely engraved ones.  To finish the bars up I'm thinking about upgrading from my usual cork to either the new silver Nitto or the classic, black rubber Velox bar-end plugs, which are a teeny bit lighter.  For me it'll be purely an aesthetic choice.

Nitto bar-end plugs

The final decision on which bars to use may come down to price with the Grand Bois costing nearly double my other two choices.  Aside from the bar-end plug choice I will also be sticking with shellacked, cloth bar tape.  Colour to be determined after the bike